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All plaster walls will crack over time due to normal house settling and expansion and contraction from temperature and moisture changes. Small, thin hairline cracks are generally not serious and are mostly a cosmetic issue. However, larger or more significant cracks can indicate structural problems.

Here's how to tell the difference:

• Cosmetic Cracks: Cracks that are 0.5 cm (0.2 inches) or thinner are typically cosmetic.

• Structural Cracks: Cracks wider than 0.5 cm, excessive or deep cracks, multiple cracks in the same area, or cracks that span around corners can signify a structural or foundation issue. Cracks along the joints where walls meet the ceiling also warrant attention.

For cracks wider than 0.5 cm, structural repair is needed. If a crack is 2.5 cm (1 inch) or wider, or if you notice any signs of a structural problem, it is best to contact a plaster repair professional to assess the damage.

There are several things you should not do when installing drywall. Common mistakes include: adding too many screws, over-sanding, not adding backing support, and installing drywall unevenly. You also should avoid screwing into the same place twice, installing Sheetrock with tapered edges on the outside, and making too many joints.

You should always hang drywall from the top down. Starting at the top makes it easier to create a straight, tight line between the ceiling and the wall. Any gaps that occur will be at the bottom, where they are easier to manage. You can either cut the bottom piece of drywall to fit the remaining space or cover the gap with baseboard trim. Additionally, starting at the top is physically easier, as you won't have to fit the top sheet into a tight space between the lower sheet and the ceiling, or try to balance the upper sheets on the lower ones while securing them.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.