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Green branches are more flexible and easier to work with, but they'll shrink as they dry, which can loosen your fence weave over time—so you'll need to weave them extra tight to account for shrinkage. Some species, particularly willow, may also try to sprout when used green. For these reasons, it’s typically easiest to use branches that have dried for a week or two.

If possible, it is beneficial to paint both sides of your fence to protect the fence more completely from the elements. Painting both sides of your fence will create a more consistent appearance as well. However, the time and cost involved in painting both sides of the fence may cause people to paint only the side they see.

You’ll need to bury the garden fence about 1 foot underground. It’s tempting to save on materials by burying the fence just a couple of inches, but if you do so, determined pests will still be able to dig under the fence and access your plants. Burying your garden fence deep into the soil is an important step that allows you to attach a wire barrier to the fencing. 

Burrowing animals (like voles, moles, rabbits, and gophers) can’t dig or chew through this wiring, meaning that you’ll be keeping your prized petunias or your robust veggie garden from being eaten.

When deciding to replace or repair your existing fence, consider the 20% rule that fence builders reference. This rule states that if more than 20% of your fence needs repair, you should skip the repair and replace it. Additionally, if your fence is nearing the end of its life, it's often best to replace it.

Repairing the fence is a good option when you have minimal damage or damage from a specific event versus wear and tear. Your fence repair professional can assess the damage and compare the repair price with the cost of a new fence.