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You can pour concrete over asphalt if it’s in good condition, thick, stable, and well-compacted. Concrete is more durable than asphalt and can extend the lifetime of your driveway without having to pay frequent asphalt driveway repair costs or replace it completely. 

But this is best reserved as a temporary solution based on budget restraints, as asphalt requires more frequent repairs and assessments than concrete. Once that concrete top is poured, it’ll be harder to accurately understand what’s happening beneath that layer, which could lead to more issues.

If pavers are uneven but not sunken, lift the affected bricks and check the bedding sand underneath. In many cases, simply smoothing out or adjusting the sand is enough to level them. Add or remove small amounts as needed, then press the pavers back into place and tap them with a mallet until they sit evenly with the surrounding surface.

There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.

Your city or county will have guidelines about the minimum and maximum width and length of private roads. The average private road is 12 feet wide, and length, of course, depends on your property. Requirements also depend on the amount of traffic and types of vehicles your road experiences. Check with local ordinances before planning a road on your property.