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Fence Painting FAQs, answered by experts

If you don’t treat a cedar fence, it will turn from reddish brown to gray over time. You can keep the cedar from graying and retain its attractive, deep red color by sealing your cedar fence with a stain that keeps the wood’s oils in and serves as a barrier against the sun’s UV rays.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Stains penetrate wood best when it's cool and dry, so you want to avoid moisture. If the wood is wet upon application, or if it rains before the stain dries, the water will soak into the wood and displace the staining solution. This leads to a flaky and blotchy look, which is the opposite of a sumptuous even coat. Once the stain has fully cured, after about 3 days, rain shouldn’t cause you any problems.

The number of coats you need to apply when whitewashing a surface depends on how opaque you want the final product to be. If you're going for a transparent, barely there look, a single coat or two may suffice. For fuller coverage, you'll want to use multiple coats. Another option is to use a less diluted paint to get a thicker coverage. 

Adding a second coat of stain to wood can even out the color to some extent, but it won't drastically alter the hue if the initial application is too light or too dark. It's more effective at enhancing the richness of the color rather than significantly changing it. Ensure the first coat is dry before applying the second.

The Codorus, PA homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

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