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Since wood is weaker when installed horizontally versus vertically, a horizontal fence is prone to sagging. You can prevent this drooping from happening by building a sturdier fence. Use softwoods that are more stable, such as cedar and redwood, or denser hardwoods for your fence materials. If you can’t afford these pricey materials, use thicker two-by-six pressure-treated pine boards or shorten the span the fence boards have to cover by installing more posts.

There’s no definitive answer to this question because dog owners and experts are conflicted about the efficacy and morality of electric fences. However, physical fences are typically considered a better option since they provide guaranteed containment for your pup, provided they are tall enough, and your dog can’t dig under them. Physical fences can also provide privacy, which might stop your dog from barking at people or animals walking by. Physical dog fences tend to be more expensive, but most homeowners find them to be a better option overall.

You have several options for anchoring a temporary fence to keep it from falling down. Sandbags can be used as a standard weight, but they may blow away or fail in strong winds and inclement weather. Spikes and bolts are a cost-effective and easy-to-install alternative, but drilling can be difficult if the ground is frozen, too soft, or too hard. Another option is wind braces, which should be bolted into the ground to withstand turbulent wind; however, like spikes, they can be challenging to install in very soft or hard ground.

When considering how much of a gap should be under a fence or gate, a good rule of thumb is to keep gaps between 2 and 5 inches tall. This allows for some ground clearance for the gate but still provides safety for children and pets, who shouldn’t be able to squeeze through a gap of that size.