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There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.

A driveway approach is the part of a driveway where the public road meets the private driveway. This section contains several key elements, including the driveway apron, the curb cut, and the end slope. Depending on the slope of the driveway, this area may also contain the trench drain.

Whether you should resurface or replace your asphalt driveway heavily depends on its condition. If the foundation is solid and the damage is minor, resurfacing is your best bet because it’s more affordable and faster than replacing the driveway. But if your driveway has foundational problems and/or severe damage, like large, deep cracks and potholes, then it makes more sense to replace it. 

In most cases, you don’t need a permit to repave your driveway, although some exceptions exist. If you’re widening your driveway and plan on widening the apron as well, you’ll usually need a permit from the Department of Transportation in your area. This permit costs between $50 and $300 in most cases. Most municipalities will also require a certified and insured contractor do the work relating to the apron and curb cut. You can contact your building department or ask your paving company if you need a permit. Your driveway professional will usually pull the permit for you.