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Insulation questions, answered by experts

Mineral wool wraps are the most affordable and effective insulation for crawl space ducts. They are easy to cut, last for a long time, and healthier for humans. Meanwhile, fiberglass wraps are cheaper but more hazardous and difficult to handle. If you do choose to use a fiberglass wrap, make sure you are wearing long sleeves and wear proper protective gear.

You won’t find anything inside a cupola on a house because it’s hollow (think of an upside-down cup), allowing air to ventilate out of a roof via vents and light to come in via windows. They also usually have a base, vents around the middle (usually louvers), and a pointed cap at the top.

A vapor barrier keeps moisture out of the crawl space, while insulation reduces the amount of unconditioned air—and sometimes moisture—that enters the space. Coupling a vapor barrier with insulation can help prevent humidity and related moisture damage in a crawl space while also making your home more energy-efficient. Just be sure to use insulation that won’t get damaged from moisture, like rigid foam board or expanding spray foam insulation.

If you’re moving wires, installing new wires, or installing new fixtures in the space you’re insulating, then you will need to hire a licensed electrician to do that portion of the job for you. However, if you just intend on replacing old insulation or adding new insulation over existing insulation, then you don’t need to hire one. Your insulation installer will work around wiring, fixtures, outlets, and switches, even if they’re installing fiberglass batts in the voids where wires run. However, you will need an electrician if you suspect a problem with your wiring during the insulation work.

If you’re using faced insulation with paper, face the paper toward the inside of the room during the installation process. 

A good way to remember this is that the paper should face the “warm side” as it’s the vapor barrier, meaning it should face toward where the heat will be coming from.

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