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All plaster walls will crack over time due to normal house settling and expansion and contraction from temperature and moisture changes. Small, thin hairline cracks are generally not serious and are mostly a cosmetic issue. However, larger or more significant cracks can indicate structural problems.

Here's how to tell the difference:

• Cosmetic Cracks: Cracks that are 0.5 cm (0.2 inches) or thinner are typically cosmetic.

• Structural Cracks: Cracks wider than 0.5 cm, excessive or deep cracks, multiple cracks in the same area, or cracks that span around corners can signify a structural or foundation issue. Cracks along the joints where walls meet the ceiling also warrant attention.

For cracks wider than 0.5 cm, structural repair is needed. If a crack is 2.5 cm (1 inch) or wider, or if you notice any signs of a structural problem, it is best to contact a plaster repair professional to assess the damage.

Plaster that sags or bulges, shows extensive deep cracks, or is crumbling from water damage or simply time may need replacement. Plaster walls can look a little “worn” for a long time before they need replacing. The only real way to know if it needs a replacement is to hire a professional to assess the condition of the plaster.

When choosing materials for finishing basement walls, consider factors such as moisture resistance, durability, and fire resistance. Opt for materials specifically designed for basement environments, like moisture-resistant drywall or cement board. Insulation with vapor barriers can help regulate temperature and prevent condensation. Consider using mold-resistant paints or coatings. 

Research and consult with experts to select materials that are suitable for your specific basement conditions and intended use. Prioritize quality and compatibility to achieve long-lasting and aesthetically pleasing results.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.