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Plastering and skimming are two different techniques for finishing walls. Plastering involves applying a thick layer of a plaster mixture—typically containing gypsum, lime, cement, sand, and water—to create a new surface. This process often requires multiple coats and is used for repairing significant damage or creating decorative textures. Skimming, on the other hand, is a technique that involves applying a thin layer of drywall compound or joint compound over an existing surface to smooth it out, covering minor imperfections, small cracks, or uneven textures for a polished look. Plastering is generally more costly and labor-intensive than skimming. Although some people use the terms interchangeably, they refer to different processes and materials.

Whether to repair or replace water-damaged plaster depends on the scale of the damage. For small, limited areas, you can often perform a repair yourself. If you choose to paint over small patches, ensure the surface is completely dry and apply a coat of antifungal primer first to prevent mold growth. However, simply painting or plastering over the damage is only a temporary solution that doesn't address the core problem. For more extensive or long-term damage, the plaster may be compromised, and there is a risk of mold. In these cases, it is recommended to remove the damaged section of plasterboard and replace it. You may consider hiring a professional for the repair, and it's worth noting that water damage is often covered by home insurance.

There are several benefits to wet-sanding drywall, but the main perk is that it produces far less dust than dry-sanding. As a result, wet-sanding poses fewer health risks and makes less of a mess in your home. Plus, damp sponges are less abrasive than sandpaper, so there’s a smaller chance of scratching or damaging the drywall paper. Wet-sanding also creates a smoother finish than dry-sanding.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.