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You can't build a fence against your neighbor's fence if it touches or is attached to it unless you get explicit permission from your neighbor. Most municipalities recommend building a fence about two feet away from your neighbor's fence to allow access for fence repair and mowing.

There are two things you can do to make a fence replacement easier—but keep in mind that easier doesn’t mean better. First, you can use a jack or some other type of machinery to pull the post out of the ground. If that’s not available, a digging bar can help.

Second, you can backfill the hole with gravel rather than creating a concrete footing. Keep in mind, gravel is less secure. You should only use it if you’re installing a lightweight fence or have heavier, clay soil.

You’ll need to bury the garden fence about 1 foot underground. It’s tempting to save on materials by burying the fence just a couple of inches, but if you do so, determined pests will still be able to dig under the fence and access your plants. Burying your garden fence deep into the soil is an important step that allows you to attach a wire barrier to the fencing. 

Burrowing animals (like voles, moles, rabbits, and gophers) can’t dig or chew through this wiring, meaning that you’ll be keeping your prized petunias or your robust veggie garden from being eaten.

Vinyl and chicken wire are two of the best and most affordable materials for a DIY garden fence. Vinyl is a great option because it is cost-effective, easy to work with, and effective at keeping pests out. A vinyl fence can cost as little as $15 per linear foot, especially if you install it yourself. Chicken wire is even more budget-friendly, costing as little as $2 per linear foot. While chicken wire is more affordable, vinyl is a better choice if privacy is a concern. You can also add chicken wire on top of a vinyl fence for extra security.