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Choose a drill bit that is the size of the screws of the anchors you will use. You aren’t drilling through metal or concrete—hopefully—so any standard twist, wooden or all-purpose drill bit will work fine. It’s also important to have a screwdriver capable of drilling through the drywall and into the stud. The good news is most available drills, even the older ones, can do this with no issue.

Plaster is a pretty tough surface, but it can still sustain damage from things like bumping against it, water issues, dampness, extreme humidity changes, and plain old age. Most plaster walls last hundreds of years and will only be taken down to the base layer when major repairs are required. Being cautious around the wall, not placing furniture against it, and ensuring stable humidity are all great ways to reduce possible damage.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

The cost to install drywall is between $1.50 and $3 per square foot, while shiplap installation costs between $2 and $7 on average. In most applications, shiplap installations cost more than that of putting in drywall. However, several ways exist to reduce shiplap prices, especially for small locations or accent walls, which can keep the total cost of shiplap competitive with that of drywall.