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The most common causes of sunken pavers are poor base preparation and insufficient compaction. The problem could also be how your pavers were installed. If the soil beneath your patio or walkway wasn't compacted, it will pull pavers down as it settles. Additionally, using bare soil instead of making a paver bed with compacted gravel and sand can cause sinking over time. To fix sunken pavers, consider recompacting the base and addressing any drainage or erosion issues in the area.

Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.

The layer of polymeric sand under the pavers plus the polymeric sand that gets swept into the joints between your pavers holds them in place in a few ways. For one, the gritty texture of the sand helps lock the pavers together. Polymeric sand also contains bonding agents that get activated by water. Polymeric sand will take between 24 and 48 hours to fully cure, so do not walk on your paver walkway before this time.

The dimensions of a driveway apron vary based on local building codes, the width of your driveway, and the distance between the driveway and the road. On average, aprons range from 12 to 24 feet wide and 8 to 18 feet long. Typically, the end of the apron connected to the driveway matches its width—such as 10 to 12 feet for a single-car driveway—while the end at the street flares out to allow cars to turn in and out more easily. In some areas, you may not be responsible for the portion of the apron that extends beyond the sidewalk, but this depends on local laws.