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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

Staining or sealing a cedar deck or fence is highly recommended to extend its lifespan and protect it from the elements. While cedar is naturally resistant to mold and mildew, it is not impervious to damage from moisture, sun exposure, splintering, fading, and rot over time. Applying a protective finish creates a shield that preserves the wood's strength and appearance, potentially extending its life by five to 10 years.

When choosing a finish, it's helpful to understand the difference between a sealer and a stain. A sealer sits on top of the wood, whereas a combination stain and sealer soaks into the top layer. Because it penetrates the wood, a stain generally offers better protection against UV damage and rot and lasts significantly longer. For the best results that also preserve the wood's natural color, consider using a near-translucent stain.

To maintain protection, plan on reapplying the stain or sealer every two to three years, either as a DIY project or by hiring a professional.

Staining a wood fence isn’t guaranteed to prevent warping, but it can help. Plus, it’s a beginner-friendly DIY project that you can finish in a few days. If you want to try it, you’ll start by stripping it of any old stain or paint, then sanding it. After that, you’ll clean it and spot-treat any mold or mildew. When it’s dry, you can apply the stain.

You can apply stain over peeling stain, but it’s not a good idea. Your old stain will get in the way of your new stain bonding to the wood, so you’re likely going to see the same issue again shortly after application. Your best option is to sand off the old stain and clean the surface thoroughly before applying new stain.

Generally, these steps are included in exterior house painting:

  • Prepping and protecting the areas not being painted

  • Scraping away loose paint

  • Cleaning off dirt, grease, and debris

  • Caulking gaps and openings

  • Priming with a quality paint primer

  • Painting the prepared areas, including trim and accents with chosen paint finish

  • Adding a second coat

  • Cleaning up the site and disposing of tape, plastic, and drop cloths

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

The Fort Sumner, NM homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.

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