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Generally, you should prune around 20% of an apple tree’s growth—and never more than 30%. This means that if you have a severely overgrown tree, it can take a few seasons to prune it back enough to produce the healthiest fruit. 

If you’re dealing with a newly planted or juvenile tree, hold off on pruning beyond the initial shaping. Wait at least a couple of seasons into fruit production since pruning can increase the number of water sprouts and unproductive foliage.

It depends. Smaller, younger trees take longer to mature, but they're more resilient, their roots don't get as damaged during transplanting, and they recover faster. Plus, they're much more affordable to plant, and it's possible to DIY the planting. 

On the other hand, mature trees produce fruit faster and provide more shade and privacy immediately. Ideally, a small or medium tree is the better choice if you can wait a few years for it to mature. But if you need immediate maturity, a larger tree is the only option.

Most experts recommend removing a tree that has sustained more than 25% loss in the limbs, trunk, or circumference of the bark. Doing an initial trimming of damaged and dangling branches, but then waiting a few days of monitoring to decide how much more you might need to cut can help you better assess the total damage to the tree. However, consulting a tree maintenance pro to make this determination the best course of action before removing a tree.

Since overwatering can harm mature trees just as much as a lack of water, it’s important to know the signs of an overwatered tree. If your tree’s leaves are yellowing, wilting, or dropping leaves, it’s likely that you’re overwatering. Other common signs include rotting, fungi, soggy soil, soft or peeling bark, falling leaves, and brittle roots. 

If you realize that you’ve been overwatering your mature tree, stop watering and give the soil time to dry out. Then moving forward, increase time between watering sessions.