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To drain a broken toilet, place towels or plastic sheeting around the base in case of splashing or overflowing. Next, shut off the toilet’s water supply, usually via a valve on the wall behind the toilet. Begin flushing the handle to remove as much water as possible from the tank and the bowl. Don’t flush the toilet if it’s clogged, though. From there, use a large sponge to soak up any remaining water and wring it over a bucket. 

Basement toilets don’t always need a pump. However, it is the most common setup because plumbing systems use gravity to move waste away from the home. Basement toilets often sit below the home’s main sewage system, and installing a sewage ejector pump pushes the wastewater and sewage up to the main sewer line. Alternatively, you can use an upflush or macerator toilet that breaks down the waste and pushes it straight to the main sewer line rather than via a sewer line from the bathroom.

Some older homes have toilets in the basement to combat sewage backups. This type of toilet, also known as a Pittsburgh potty, acted as a safety valve over the incoming sewer line. If a line backed up, it would back up into the toilet because it was the lowest fixture in the home, keeping it out of sight and away from the finished areas of the house.

Basement toilets were also used by workers with messy jobs, like those who worked in coal mines or steel mills. This way, they could clean up and avoid tracking dirt through their home.

If you have to hold the toilet handle (also called the toilet lever) down to flush, you probably have a chain problem. A chain that cannot fully lift the flapper will close too early and not clear the toilet bowl. Try adjusting the chain length so there’s about ½ inch of slack.