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You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

In the case that a tree is growing directly on your property line, the cost of maintaining the tree is shared and is the property of both owners in common. In this case, all decisions regarding the maintenance of the tree must be made jointly, and both parties must agree on a course of action. You will need to agree with your neighbor about the cutting of any roots before you carry it out, and your neighbor must also consult with you before doing any trimming. Coming to an agreement with your neighbor about any shared trees ahead of necessary trimming and maintenance will make this process much simpler.

Pruning can impact cold hardiness—but it’s less about the exact temperature and more about temperature variation. Generally, you don’t want to prune trees when there’s a risk of temperatures suddenly dropping from 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit to 0 degrees Fahrenheit or below. A tree is most sensitive until 48 hours after it’s pruned.

You can never truly stop a maple tree from growing taller, but you can rein in its growth by pruning. Proper pruning helps maintain a safe size for your tree without causing permanent damage. It’s important to start pruning a tree while it’s young, long before it becomes a problem. Otherwise, you may be left with too many hazardous branches to remove at once.