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Generally, you should prune around 20% of an apple tree’s growth—and never more than 30%. This means that if you have a severely overgrown tree, it can take a few seasons to prune it back enough to produce the healthiest fruit. 

If you’re dealing with a newly planted or juvenile tree, hold off on pruning beyond the initial shaping. Wait at least a couple of seasons into fruit production since pruning can increase the number of water sprouts and unproductive foliage.

No. Topping a tree refers to severely cutting down all its major branches and tree in a straight line. It was once recommended for streetside deciduous trees but has fallen out of practice. Topping leads to many problems, removing so much of the tree that many trees struggle to survive and become much more vulnerable to insects and diseases. Also, it doesn’t really help tree growth as once assumed and often leads to an ugly appearance of many sprouting stems in competition to become new main branches.

Unlike some fruit trees, such as apple, sweet cherry, or pear that require at least two trees for pollination, most peach trees are self-pollinating. This means you can plant just one tree and still expect it to produce fruit, typically within two to four years. For best results, consult with a local landscaper to choose the right peach tree variety for your specific climate, soil type, and yard layout.

Stay inside or well away until the storm passes. Don’t go outside to inspect the tree until the weather clears, especially if the tree is on a hill or isolated in a field. Lightning often strikes the same easily-accessed places multiple times, and you could be a new target. If a lightning strike causes a noticeable fire, alert emergency services. When the storm is over, take a closer look to gauge the damage done.