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You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

Some trees, such as silver maples, birches, sycamores, and scotch pines, shed their bark naturally. If your tree is not one that does this, it might have fallen prey to pests, fungi, or diseases. It could also simply be suffering from an extreme weather change, such as a snowstorm or heat wave. If you’re still stumped, consulting with a pro can help you diagnose your tree’s specific problem.

Generally, homeowners do not need permission to cut down a tree on their own private property, but there are several exceptions where a permit may be required. You might need a permit if the tree is particularly large, old, or a protected species, such as a heritage tree. Trees located near public property or power lines can also be subject to special rules. Additionally, many local governments and homeowners associations (HOAs) have regulations controlling which trees can be removed to manage an area's appearance or prevent the spread of invasive species. To avoid hefty fines, it is crucial to check with your local government and HOA to determine if a permit is needed before you begin.

A tree branch should start to form roots in about three months. It can take about a year for a tree branch to develop roots strong enough to go in the ground. For best results, start several branches because, no matter how closely you follow instructions, they won’t all form roots. Compost any that aren’t thriving.