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Most trees can be successfully transplanted while they are young, but pines, walnuts, and some oak tree varieties are more difficult to move because their root systems grow deeper than most other trees. Also, trees adapted to sandy soil with wide root systems like beeches, willows, and aspens are harder to dig out because their roots spread much farther out from the trunk. In these cases, unless the trees are very young and small, it’s a good idea to consult a tree planting professional.

On grafted trees, tree suckers will grow from the root stock, not the branches grafted onto it. Therefore, the leaves and characteristics of the suckers aren’t the same as the tree because they are different varieties. Root stock has more hardiness, strength, or drought tolerance than its grafted limbs, so if the suckers are from fruit or flowers, it might be different than the main part of your tree.

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

If tree branches cross well into your property line, in many cases, these branches become part of your property, and you can trim them up until your neighbor’s property line. However, this issue will vary based on local ordinances, so you should do your research before making any decisions. Better yet, speak with your neighbor about how to handle any tree issues. 

If you don’t mind the branches, you can leave them be, but if they’re becoming a hazard, it’s definitely worth having a conversation.