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Late winter is ideal, but if you’re pruning apple trees in the spring, prune them as early as possible in the season. You want to ensure your tree is just creeping out of dormancy and hasn’t started pushing out new growth. If you prune your tree too late into spring, you generally won’t see results until the following year.

That said, there’s no pruning season for unhealthy growth. Remove dead, dying, or diseased branches as soon as you notice them, regardless of the time of year.

While there is a lot of debate about whether boiling water is strong enough to kill tree roots, it is not best to remove the roots from large, old trees. You may be able to weaken young roots enough to remove them manually, but boiling water will likely not do the trick for large root systems.

If you’re wondering whether you can plant a tree where the stump was removed, know that the soil conditions won’t be ideal, so you should avoid it. The soil beneath the previous tree will likely be depleted of nutrients, plus there may be roots left behind that will seriously hinder the growth of a new tree. Also, if you use salt or other chemical solutions to kill the stump, these can linger in the soil for months or even years and prevent healthy growth. It’s best to choose a different spot that’s at least three feet away for a new tree, or wait at least a year and thoroughly amend the soil before you plant.

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.