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Arborists questions, answered by experts

A pro can guide you on the alternatives to tree topping depending on the specific issues within your trees. For example, if you’re dealing with breakage and cracks in your tree, they may suggest canopy reduction, which removes less than 25% of the tree’s limbs. If you’re dealing with lesser damage, some intentional pruning may be all you need. If you’re looking to get a clearer view through your tree, the pro may also try windowing or skirting your tree.

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

Ensures complete removal and mitigates risks of underground root damage.

Unlike some fruit trees, such as apple, sweet cherry, or pear that require at least two trees for pollination, most peach trees are self-pollinating. This means you can plant just one tree and still expect it to produce fruit, typically within two to four years. For best results, consult with a local landscaper to choose the right peach tree variety for your specific climate, soil type, and yard layout.

Pruning can impact cold hardiness—but it’s less about the exact temperature and more about temperature variation. Generally, you don’t want to prune trees when there’s a risk of temperatures suddenly dropping from 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit to 0 degrees Fahrenheit or below. A tree is most sensitive until 48 hours after it’s pruned.

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