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Try the tool test first. A screwdriver or a similarly long, thin tool will work best, as spades and shovels are too big. If something still seems off despite the screwdriver smoothly going into the soil, look for other signs that you need aeration, like thinning grass, discolored areas, and puddles forming on your lawn after light rain. This indicates poor drainage because of too many areas being compacted.

Adding seed to existing grass is often known as overseeding, as opposed to reseeding. Reseeding refers to the process of filling in bare or dying patches of lawn—or in some cases, full lawns—whereas reseeding supports existing lawns to prevent thinning. Overseeding is an ideal annual lawn care practice for grass fighting drought, disease, weeds, or pest issues.

While your lawn will reap the benefits of core aeration faster than liquid aeration, the liquid solution will last longer and have more cumulative effects. If your lawn is in really bad shape, try both. By creating holes in the soil with the core aerator, you’ll make it easier for your lawn to absorb the liquid aerator solution. You might have to apply the liquid aerator several times during the growing season, but again, the positive results will be more cumulative than with core aeration on its own.

Aerating a newly sodded lawn is generally not recommended immediately after installation. It's crucial to allow the sod to establish itself first, typically over the first growing season. Aerating too soon can disrupt the fragile root systems of the newly laid sod and potentially damage the turf. It's best to aerate prior to laying new sod or wait until the sod has fully rooted and the lawn is stable before considering aeration, usually after the first year.