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There are six levels of drywall finish, from 0 to 5, that refer to the amount of work performed during the finishing process.

Level 0: Drywall is hung with no finishing work.

Level 1: Tape is placed over the seams between drywall sheets.

Level 2: A thin layer of mud is applied over the tape and screw holes. This level is common for utility rooms or walls that will be covered.

Level 3: A full coat of mud covers the screw holes and tape, but the surface is not sanded. This is often used in garages.

Level 4: This is the most common finish for visible interior walls. It involves applying two coats of mud over seams and screw holes, with sanding between each coat, creating a smooth surface ready for flat paint.

Level 5: This is a high-end finish for luxury homes. It includes full taping, mudding, and sanding, plus a final skim coat over the entire surface before painting.

Furring strips, thin strips of wood or metal, are not always required for ceiling drywall installation. If the ceiling surface is even and in good condition, drywall can be directly attached to the ceiling joists using screws. However, furring strips become essential when dealing with irregular surfaces or when additional insulation or soundproofing is needed. They create a level substrate for attaching the drywall. Ultimately, the decision to use furring strips depends on the condition of the existing ceiling and the specific requirements of the project.

Popular wall textures include orange peel, knockdown, spray sand, and smooth finishes. Orange peel and knockdown are particularly common choices for drywall as they are simple and cost-effective. Orange peel texture has a lightly bumpy surface resembling the skin of an orange, while knockdown (sometimes called knockout) looks like a stucco finish with flattened high spots. In contrast, popcorn texture has fallen out of fashion, partly due to its past association with asbestos and a shift toward more restrained interior design styles.

You should always hang drywall from the top down. Starting at the top makes it easier to create a straight, tight line between the ceiling and the wall. Any gaps that occur will be at the bottom, where they are easier to manage. You can either cut the bottom piece of drywall to fit the remaining space or cover the gap with baseboard trim. Additionally, starting at the top is physically easier, as you won't have to fit the top sheet into a tight space between the lower sheet and the ceiling, or try to balance the upper sheets on the lower ones while securing them.