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If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

Adding insulation to ceilings is an excellent way to increase the energy efficiency of your home. If your home's layout is such that you need insulation in the ceilings rather than in the roof, it's likely that at least some insulation already exists in the space. However, each additional inch of insulation you can add boosts the R-value by between 2.2 and 4.2.

The primary reason that insulation saves you money over time is that it reduces your energy bills by making your home more energy efficient. A crucial part of an insulation system is a properly installed vapor barrier. Local building codes dictate whether your insulation requires a vapor barrier based on the type installed. While some high-quality wool insulation may not technically need a vapor barrier, most municipalities still require one to meet code.