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While it’s technically possible to repoint a chimney without scaffolding, it’s not recommended, especially for taller chimneys. Scaffolding provides a stable platform that allows for safer and more precise work. Without it, you might find yourself in a risky situation, and the quality of the repointing could suffer.

The proper specifications for furring strips can vary, so you should always consult the roofing manufacturer's guidelines or your roofer. However, general recommendations are as follows:

• Thickness: Furring strips are typically 1 to 1-1/2 inches thick, meaning standard 1-by or 2-by lumber works well. In areas with extreme winds, a thinner strip may be preferred to limit how much air can get under the roof and cause uplift. A thicker strip can add slightly more insulation but will also increase installation costs.

• Spacing: The recommended spacing for furring strips is between 12 and 24 inches apart on center. Proper spacing is crucial for ensuring good airflow, adequate drainage, noise reduction, and better energy efficiency. The ideal spacing can depend on the roof's pitch and the specific type of metal roofing being installed.

It’s possible to walk on a clay tile roof, but you run the risk of breaking or cracking the tiles if you’re not careful, so it’s best not to walk on it if you can avoid it. If you or a contractor needs roof access, be sure to distribute your weight evenly and step on the portions of tile that are also supported underneath, which depends on your tile design. Walking on any roofing material is inherently dangerous, so wear rubber-soled shoes and use safety equipment if you need to access your roof.

There should be small gaps between your roof and the walls of your home, and other buildings. These small gaps let building materials shift, expand, and contract with weather and other outside forces, and they prevent moisture from wicking down walls from roofing and gutter systems. Without these strategic gaps, your home’s exterior and its finishes can sustain water damage, decay, peel, delaminate, and crack. However, there is a fine line between a smart gap and a problematic gap—all  gaps should be small, intentional, and covered or filled in with foam insulation to prevent pests from using them as access points.