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Sonart Construction Corp.
2.3(
7
)
Drywall - InstallDrywall - Install - For BusinessDrywall - Repair+1 more

Serving Charlemont, MA and surrounding areas

Approved

In business since 2013

Free estimates

Credit card accepted

"I recently had my shingle roof replaced and I?m very happy with the results. The team was professional, punctual, and completed the job efficiently. The quality of the work is excellent, and the new roof looks great. They kept the work area clean and communicated well throughout the process. I would definitely recommend them to anyone needing a roof replacement."
Avatar for The BullBag
The BullBag
5.0(
15
)
Drywall - InstallDrywall - Install - For BusinessDrywall - Repair+1 more

Serving Charlemont, MA and surrounding areas

In business since 2001

Credit card accepted

"It went well! I expected it to take a long time to get it picked up, but I called for the bag to be emptied on Friday and they were here Saturday! I am already filling it up again. (We have a MESS from the storm and need to finish the kitchen before this weekend's company coming in from out of town.) I have already called them to request my bag be emptied on Friday, and they have me on the schedule! I can't believe the customer service is so great! This is not a regular dumpster company. I have a dumpster delivered last summer and they gouged my driveway. What a nightmare it was to get them to pay for the driveway to be fixed. NEVER AGAIN! It's BullBag only for our future needs."
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Drywall questions, answered by experts

The best way to make long, straight cuts is to use a utility knife and a T-square to score the sheet, snap along the score, and then finish the cut by cutting through the paper on the opposite side with the utility knife. If you’re making small cuts, curved cuts, or cutouts for electrical boxes or light fixtures, you can use a manual jab saw to keep costs down, but an electric spiral saw or oscillating multi-tool will get the cleanest, fastest cuts possible.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

Whether it’s better to screw or glue drywall depends on your specific budget and project timeline. Professional drywall installers are more likely to use screws and fasteners than adhesives, but it takes longer. But if you are DIYing your drywall installation, glue is a perfectly fine choice if you’re willing to pay extra for adhesive.

The two most common drywall thicknesses for ceilings are 1/2-inch and 5/8-inch. For most standard residential applications, 1/2-inch drywall is sufficient and widely used. It provides adequate support and is lighter and easier to handle during installation compared to thicker sheets. However, 5/8-inch drywall is often used for specific cases where additional benefits are needed. It is heavier but provides superior sound dampening and fire resistance. You should consider using 5/8-inch drywall for ceilings in commercial buildings, between a garage and a living space, or above a finished basement to meet building codes or for enhanced soundproofing.

You should do a little bit of sanding between adding coats of mud. Knock down any ridges or significantly imperfect areas through sanding, which should help you apply the next coat of mud smoothly. If your first coat of mud is pretty smooth after it dries, a quick sanding is all you’ll need. Don’t forget to wipe away any dust after each sanding process.

The Charlemont, MA homeowners’ guide to drywall services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.