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Radon Detection and Reduction questions, answered by experts

Options include sub-slab depressurization, crawlspace ventilation, and sealing cracks. Choose based on home construction and radon levels.

A homeowner can install a radon mitigation system on their own. But it’s a challenging DIY that requires a lot of knowledge about radon mitigation as well as familiarity with local regulations. You do not want to risk an improper installation that leaves the system unable to detect radon or gives it a shortened life span. Relying on a professional is the surest way to guarantee a successful installation.

Radon enters your home when warm air begins to rise and exits through the roof, creating a vacuum that pulls cooler air from under the foundation. Part of that air is radon, which is an invisible, odorless gas that develops naturally when radioactive particles are deep within the ground. Those particles usually come from decaying matter in soil and rocks.

Your radon mitigation system may be loud because it’s time to replace it. Any sounds are usually from the inline fan that helps create the vacuum and resulting airflow. If you hear a new, loud mechanical or humming noise from your radon fan, it might be time to replace it. Most fans used in radon mitigation systems last up to 10 years, but may need to be replaced sooner.

The average radon mitigation system uses about 876 kWh of electricity per year, although the exact amount of electricity used will vary depending on the size of the radon fan. Once the system is installed, the annual increase to your energy bill could range from $30 to $300 per year, again depending on the size of the fan.

The Pippa Passes, KY homeowners’ guide to radon detection and reduction services

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