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Solid brick structures can last a century or more, potentially 100 to 150 years with proper maintenance like tuckpointing. Without major repairs, classic red bricks may last 20 to 40 years. Brick veneer siding is also a long-lasting material, with a lifespan ranging from 50 to 100 years, provided it is properly installed and maintained. To maintain brick veneer, you should scrub it annually with a special detergent and a soft-bristled broom. It's also important to inspect the bricks and mortar regularly and hire a masonry contractor for any necessary repairs, such as fixing worn mortar or bowing bricks.

No, it’s not recommended to attach shutters to brick without drilling. Brick is dense and built to last, so adhesives and shortcut methods don’t usually cut it. Even heavy-duty glue struggles to hold up over time—especially against wind, moisture, and temperature changes. Most no-drill options are made for materials like vinyl or wood, not solid masonry. Skipping the drill might seem easier, but it puts your shutters—and anything below them—at risk. For a secure, lasting install, drilling is the way to go. It takes more effort up front, but the result is safer and more reliable.

Professionally done brick repointing can last 20 to 30 years, sometimes longer. However, the exact lifespan depends on several factors, including the quality of the mortar, the skill of the mason, and exposure to weather. If you live in an area with harsh weather or frequent freeze-thaw cycles, you may need to repoint more often. Repointing that is done as a DIY project may only last 10 to 15 years. It's time to repoint when you notice signs of mortar failure, such as crumbling or missing mortar, holes, or vines growing between the bricks. Regular inspections can help you catch these issues early.

When painting brick, each application method has distinct advantages and disadvantages. Spraying is significantly faster but may not penetrate deeply beyond the surface layer. Rolling is effective for working paint into the brick's texture but can be less effective on mortar joints. If you opt for a roller, choose a thick nap of at least a half-inch to ensure paint gets into all the crevices for even coverage. Using a brush is generally not recommended as it is very time-consuming and provides poor surface penetration. Ultimately, a combination of spraying followed by back-rolling is often the best strategy for a durable and even finish.