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On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

Most people prefer to keep the fence level by “stepping” the fence when running a horizontal fence over a slope. Stepping involves raising each panel between the posts as the fence moves over changes in slope, giving the fence line the appearance of stair steps. While this may be the preferred method of running a horizontal fence up a slope, there’s nothing wrong with installing your fence so it follows the undulations in the ground instead.

There’s no definitive answer to this question because dog owners and experts are conflicted about the efficacy and morality of electric fences. However, physical fences are typically considered a better option since they provide guaranteed containment for your pup, provided they are tall enough, and your dog can’t dig under them. Physical fences can also provide privacy, which might stop your dog from barking at people or animals walking by. Physical dog fences tend to be more expensive, but most homeowners find them to be a better option overall.

Since wood is weaker when installed horizontally versus vertically, a horizontal fence is prone to sagging. You can prevent this drooping from happening by building a sturdier fence. Use softwoods that are more stable, such as cedar and redwood, or denser hardwoods for your fence materials. If you can’t afford these pricey materials, use thicker two-by-six pressure-treated pine boards or shorten the span the fence boards have to cover by installing more posts.