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You’ll need to bury the garden fence about 1 foot underground. It’s tempting to save on materials by burying the fence just a couple of inches, but if you do so, determined pests will still be able to dig under the fence and access your plants. Burying your garden fence deep into the soil is an important step that allows you to attach a wire barrier to the fencing. 

Burrowing animals (like voles, moles, rabbits, and gophers) can’t dig or chew through this wiring, meaning that you’ll be keeping your prized petunias or your robust veggie garden from being eaten.

You have several options for anchoring a temporary fence to keep it from falling down. Sandbags can be used as a standard weight, but they may blow away or fail in strong winds and inclement weather. Spikes and bolts are a cost-effective and easy-to-install alternative, but drilling can be difficult if the ground is frozen, too soft, or too hard. Another option is wind braces, which should be bolted into the ground to withstand turbulent wind; however, like spikes, they can be challenging to install in very soft or hard ground.

Green branches are more flexible and easier to work with, but they'll shrink as they dry, which can loosen your fence weave over time—so you'll need to weave them extra tight to account for shrinkage. Some species, particularly willow, may also try to sprout when used green. For these reasons, it’s typically easiest to use branches that have dried for a week or two.

Ideally, when you replace a fence post, you should also replace the concrete footing. The concrete bonds to your new post, creating a secure base. If you install a new post into old concrete, it won’t be as sturdy.

That said, it is possible. Sometimes the post will lift right out of the concrete. If not, you can use a high-lift car jack to try and lift the pole out of the footing. Put the new post into the same hole and backfill it with fast-setting concrete. Keep in mind, this won’t work well for metal posts.