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When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

Insulating windows with plastic works, but it can be time-consuming, and the end results can—and often do—end up lacking in aesthetics. Window film and caulking your windows to make sure there are no drafts are two options that increase the energy efficiency of your home in a low-cost way. Plastic can be a good strategy while you consider alternatives.

Ideally, you can add new insulation to your existing insulation. However, some circumstances require you to remove old insulation before adding any new insulation: 

• If the insulation is over 15 years old

• If the insulation is wet or moldy

• If it is vermiculite insulation

• If you see signs of pest infestation

Removing old insulation is best left to a pro who can safely dispose of potential moldy or asbestos-ridden insulation.

You don’t need to staple insulation, as your drywall and studs will hold it into place. But if you already have a staple gun and staples lying around, it can help keep the product in place and avoid any shifting. But, most experts agree it’s an unnecessary step.

If you’re adding a vapor barrier, you will need to staple that in place.