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Large, established tree branches won’t grow roots, but if you find a young tree branch that’s less than about a year old, you’ve got a shot. Put it in water or soil as soon as possible for best results. You’ll know the branch is viable if it’s about the thickness of a pencil and has some leaves or needles.

As a general rule, the protected area should be about 1½ times as wide as the canopy of the tree’s leaves. This digging measurement can vary by tree species and the age of the tree. Of course, that can be a lot of fencing for larger trees, which is why our first step is about making difficult decisions on which trees to save.

Yes, cutting a tree's roots can cause it to fall, particularly if major support roots are severed. In extreme cases, trimming roots can affect the tree's structure and stability. Many crucial roots are located just below the soil's surface. If you make severe cuts to roots more than 2 inches in diameter, you risk impacting the tree's water flow and its ability to withstand severe winds or storms. Even cutting roots less than half an inch in diameter under or outside the tree's canopy can cut off its water supply, causing it to decline, die, and eventually topple.

You can shape a cherry tree by trimming vertical branches, dense branches, and intersecting branches. Your personal aesthetic comes into play, as well. If you want to simply thin and shape the tree, you can get away with trimming the aforementioned parts of your cherry tree. If you want to shorten branches, however, consider thinning cuts, which alter the length of the branches while encouraging light penetration, new buds and shoots, and a structurally-sound shape.