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If your home was built before the 1940s and was not remodeled in the past 50 or so years, you probably have plaster walls. Aside from assuming, there are some practical ways to tell if you have plaster walls, including the following: If you knock on the wall and it feels solid, not hollow, if you can’t insert a thumbtack easily, if there are cracks that look like spiderwebs, or if your home has curved, arched, or swirled walls, doorways, or window openings.

If you have an unfinished basement or attic, you could examine the backs of any finished walls to check, too.

The easiest way to cut holes in drywall for electrical boxes is to use a spiral saw with a drywall router bit. Hang the drywall without cutting out a hole for the box, but make sure you measure and mark where the box is located on the wall. Once you screw in the drywall sheet, drill a small hole into the box void, insert the spiral saw bit, and move it around the edge of the box using the inside wall as a guide. You can also use an oscillating multi-tool with an electrical box cutout for fast, professional results.

Plaster ceilings can sag for several reasons. In some cases, the plaster and other building materials shift and come apart over time, which is why you’ll commonly find drooping plaster ceilings in older homes. Improper installation, foot traffic, and water damage—often from a leaky roof or a broken pipe—can also cause plaster ceilings to sag.

Furring strips, thin strips of wood or metal, are not always required for ceiling drywall installation. If the ceiling surface is even and in good condition, drywall can be directly attached to the ceiling joists using screws. However, furring strips become essential when dealing with irregular surfaces or when additional insulation or soundproofing is needed. They create a level substrate for attaching the drywall. Ultimately, the decision to use furring strips depends on the condition of the existing ceiling and the specific requirements of the project.