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Both plaster and drywall are durable wall finishes, but they differ significantly in installation, cost, performance, and aesthetics.

Installation & Cost: Drywall installation is faster and more affordable, typically costing $1.50 to $3 per square foot. It uses premade sheets, making it a more accessible DIY project. Plastering is a labor-intensive craft that requires specialized skills, pushing costs to $2 to $10 per square foot. It involves applying a wet paste over a lath framework.

Durability & Performance: Plaster is generally more durable, longer-lasting, and provides superior soundproofing. It is also a better insulator, which can help reduce energy costs. Drywall is easier to remove for future renovations.

Aesthetics: Drywall provides a smooth, uniform surface ready for paint or texture. Plaster offers a high-end, naturally textured look that can hide imperfections and is often preferred for achieving a classic or historic aesthetic.

Which is better? The choice depends on your priorities. Drywall is ideal for those prioritizing a lower upfront cost, faster installation, and DIY potential. Plaster is the better option for a higher-end project where durability, soundproofing, and a unique, premium finish are more important than the initial cost.

You do not need to drywall over most types of garage insulation. However, doing so can increase noise reduction, make the space more attractive, and keep children and pets from touching harmful fiberglass insulation. If you’re using cellulose or some other type of blown-in insulation (fiberglass and mineral wool are common), you will need drywall to contain the insulation material.

Yes, you can use drywall repair techniques for some types of plaster damage. Tiny holes and small cracks in plaster can be patched in similar ways to drywall. You apply the necessary compound to fill the hole, wait for it to dry, then sand it down. For larger damage, like water damage or mold, you need to use plaster-specific techniques and materials.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.