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Brush Chipping questions, answered by experts

Trees that provide a habitat to bats and an abundance of bugs—their main food source—will attract bats to your yard. Because the North American landscape has changed so much in recent years, bats have a harder time finding trees with cavities to shelter in. If your yard has a dead or dying tree with a lot of sun exposure, bats will likely be drawn to it because trees with those features are less common.

It may sound icky, but yes, urine encourages microbial activity that breaks down organic matter faster. It’s rich in nitrogen, which helps balance carbon-heavy materials like dry leaves or straw. Use sparingly and apply it to a well-balanced pile, not one already high in nitrogen. 

While you don’t need to put anything down before mulch, you can apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent weed growth. As long as you remove weeds before you spread mulch, you should be in the clear. But a herbicide is something that you can put down before mulch as an extra layer of protection.

There are several ways to decompose yard waste quickly. The first step is to move all debris into a compost bin or pile. From there, microorganisms, bacteria, and insects will break down the yard waste into compost. To speed things up, shred the waste into smaller pieces, add live worms to the pile, or introduce nitrogen-rich compost accelerators like grass clippings, coffee grounds, and manure. Turn the compost over every few days. This process, called aerating, allows oxygen to get in and accelerate decomposition.

Generally, it is not necessary to remove old mulch before applying a new layer. As organic mulch breaks down, it enriches the soil with nutrients. However, you should remove the old layer if it shows signs of fungus or disease, which can be common in moist areas, or if the total depth is already too thick. Avoid letting the total mulch depth exceed 3 inches, as this can harm plant roots. If you do remove old, disease-free mulch, it can be added to a compost pile.

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