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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

Stain is meant to be absorbed by the porous wood, allowing some of the natural grain to show through. With that in mind, you don’t want to add more stain than the wood can absorb, as you risk covering up its natural markings. Generally, two coats is the maximum you should do, although very dense hardwoods may only be able to take a single coat.

You can paint an old wooden fence, but make sure first to do a deep clean (ideally with a pressure washer) and inspect the fence for any existing damage. Painting over dirt and debris will cause your paint to peel. Once you’ve cleaned and repaired any minor issues, use a primer and high-quality satin paint.

Your tool of choice ultimately comes down to personal preference. Many DIYers prefer applying stain with a lint-free rag, but others stick with a paint brush or a roller. Wipe the stain and work it into the wood, working with and against the grain. If you’re applying multiple coats, allow the stain to dry for around four hours between coats.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Adding a second coat of stain to wood can even out the color to some extent, but it won't drastically alter the hue if the initial application is too light or too dark. It's more effective at enhancing the richness of the color rather than significantly changing it. Ensure the first coat is dry before applying the second.

The Alpine, CA homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

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