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There are a few general rules to follow that will help you prune your trees correctly. One of the most important rules is to prune during the correct season for the type of tree you have. Typically, pruning should be during late winter. For younger trees, you should not remove more than a ⅓ of the tree's crown when pruning. Also, remember to remove dead and diseased branches first, then proceed with pruning the rest of the tree.

Early signs that a tree is struggling include premature leaf shedding and lesions or other strange markings. Peeling bark, dead or rotten branches on the ground, and a conspicuous lack of leaves can all be signs that a tree has started to die. By the time a tree starts leaning, it’s usually too far gone to save.

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

Deciduous shade trees (the type of trees whose leaves fall off in autumn) need to be pruned in late winter—between February and March. That’s because it’s easier to find and remove sick or dead branches when no leaves are present. And wounds close and heal faster in colder temperatures so pruning them at this time also makes them less prone to infection.