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Trenching and boring are two distinct methods for installing underground utilities. Trenching involves digging a channel using equipment like an excavator, trencher, backhoe, or shovel. While it is a simpler process, it causes significant disruption to the surface, landscaping, and surrounding ecosystems.

Boring, also known as directional boring, is a less invasive alternative that uses a drill to create a tunnel for utility lines without disturbing the surface. This method is more precise and is ideal for installations that need to go underneath buildings, roads, or bodies of water. Although boring is less disruptive, it is generally more expensive than trenching.

Because decomposed granite is a durable material, a crushed rock or gravel base is optional as long as the DG is properly installed and compacted. However, installing a base is a good idea because it will ensure proper drainage and stability and act as a weed suppressant (although you may still occasionally have to pull weeds). Installing an adequate base can also increase the durability of driveways and walkways. If you forego the paver base or gravel underneath, line the area with landscaping fabric to avoid weeds.

Yes, you can install a trench drain if you already have concrete in your yard or garden. While it can complicate some aspects of the job and slightly run up the cost, it is doable. Residential trench drains can be easily retrofitted to outdoor areas with concrete without having to remove excessive amounts of your patio, pool area, or decorative walkways.

Excavation is priced in cubic yards, so you’ll need to find the volume of the area in order to calculate costs. Multiply the length, width, and proposed depth of your excavation site, then convert it into yards to get the volume. Multiply this figure by the price per cubic yard.

Most homeowners can measure by hand to get a rough estimate, even if it’s tedious. You may want to pull out a tape measure or use a string to help mark the area.