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To drain a broken toilet, place towels or plastic sheeting around the base in case of splashing or overflowing. Next, shut off the toilet’s water supply, usually via a valve on the wall behind the toilet. Begin flushing the handle to remove as much water as possible from the tank and the bowl. Don’t flush the toilet if it’s clogged, though. From there, use a large sponge to soak up any remaining water and wring it over a bucket. 

If you’ve accessed the bolts and nuts that hold your toilet seat in place and can’t unscrew them, it’s possible that they were overtightened or that the material corroded over time, making it impossible to unscrew. If that’s the case, you can either call in a plumber for help, or you can DIY a solution if you’re careful. Lay down masking tape around the mounting bracket and then use the tape as a surface to lay a hack saw blade. Move slowly to cut through the bracket and bolt, being careful not to damage the porcelain in the process.

Yes, an ambitious homeowner could decide to replace their own toilet. A person attempting to do a DIY toilet installation should keep in mind that the average toilet weighs between 100 and 120 pounds. That means that you'll need to be comfortable lifting and carrying your old toilet and replacement toilet during both phases of the project. Additionally, homeowners will need to have basic plumbing knowledge to avoid plumbing problems that could result in messy, expensive water damage in their bathrooms. Hiring a plumbing pro from the get-go can help you avoid damaging your plumbing or your new toilet.

Yes, you should screw your flange to the subfloor, including cement. The best way to get this done is to predrill holes into the concrete using a hammer drill and a ¼-inch concrete bit. Be careful when you’re ready to bolt your flange down, as you can accidentally crack it. You can avoid this issue by not installing the screws too deep. Or, you can opt for a flange with a stainless steel ring so you don’t have to worry about cracking the plastic.