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Bladder and diaphragm well pressure tanks are usually pre-charged at the factory. Even so, it’s important to check the air pressure in the tank using a tire pressure gauge on the relief valve. The instruction manual usually calls for 28 psi. Use a hand pump to add more air or release some air from the tank to reach the desired number. Check the pressure periodically to see if you need to add more air to the tank.

While homeowners connected to a municipal sewer line still have to keep up with plumbing maintenance, the downside to a septic system is that all the maintenance falls on the homeowners. Not calling in a pro to pump the tank every few years or accidentally flushing or draining the wrong types of materials can quickly cause clogs, which can back up into drains around the home.

Adding a thin layer of dirt over a septic drain field is fine, especially if soil erosion has occurred. However, adding too much dirt can compact the soil, reducing the drain field’s ability to absorb and filter wastewater properly. Avoid using heavy clay soil, as it can prevent proper drainage. Instead, use a light layer of topsoil and plant grass to help with soil stability.

The main difference between a mound septic system and a conventional one is that the drain field in a mound system is built up into a mound composed of sand and gravel to increase the filtration time the wastewater sees before it is returned to the aquifer. There’s also a significant cost difference, with mound systems typically costing far more than standard septic systems.