How to Replace a Water Heater Element in 9 Steps

Your first step should be to test both heating elements using a multimeter. This will tell you which heating element is faulty. You’ll need to test your thermostat if there's a separate issue.

Now that you know an element is faulty, ask yourself again if you’re knowledgeable enough to handle the project on your own. Replacing a water heater element is highly technical with possibilities of burn and shock hazards. Improper replacement will also cause more damage to your water heater.

If you do choose to proceed with a DIY solution, you can start by turning off the power to your water heater at the circuit breaker and double-checking that it’s off using a non-contact circuit tester to test the heating element’s circuit wires. Since the thermostat controls the heating element, you’ll need to wait for the water to cool, or it can affect your test results. Wait one to two hours, and test the hot water from a tap to make sure it’s coming out cold.

The heating elements are behind an access panel on the side of your water heater. Remove the access panel and peel back the insulation. You should now have access to the heating element’s screw terminal and circuit wires. The lower heating element typically needs a replacement because it’s more vulnerable to sediment buildup, so you may want to test that one first.

You can loosen the two terminal screws (or bolts if you have an older water heater) and disconnect the wires. Make sure you always wear protective gear throughout the replacement process. Never touch wires and surrounding metal parts with bare hands.

Connect a multimeter to the terminal screws to get an OHM reading. If the value is zero (for a digital multimeter) or the needle doesn’t move (on an analog device), then the part is faulty. Go ahead with the replacement.

Now that you have tested your water heater element, it’s time to start replacing it, if necessary.

Turn off the cold water supply to your heater. The shut-off valve is typically above the water heater on the cold water pipe. The lever will be perpendicular to your pipe when the water is off and parallel when it’s on. Make sure it’s perpendicular. If you haven't already, allow the water inside the tank to cool completely.

From there, drain your hot water heater. Run a garden hose from the drain spigot to a floor drain or a utility sink. You can run the hose to a safe outdoor area if your water heater is raised above ground. Allow the tank to drain until the water line is below the heating element, or drain the whole tank if you’re replacing the lower element.

One of the pros of a tankless water heater is that it takes just a few seconds to drain the water heater. A tank water heater can take up to 15 minutes.

You may have already opened your access panel. If not, remove the cover and fold open the insulation to expose your water heater element. Once again, use your non-contact circuit tester to make sure the power is off before loosening the screws and disconnecting the black and white circuit wires.

If you have a screw-in water heater element, you can use your socket wrench to remove it. Just turn the element counterclockwise, and make sure to remove the gasket. You’ll need either a 1 1/2-inch socket or the socket that came in your repair kit.

If you have a flange-type heating element, remove the four screws and the gasket before removing the element.

Once again, double-check to ensure your heating element has the proper wattage and voltage. Clean the area—specifically where the gasket connects to the water heater—with a rag. Put the gasket on the heating element, and put the heating element in the tank.

If you have a screw-in element, twist the element clockwise using your socket wrench. If you have a flange-type element, screw in the four screws that hold the element in place. In either case, hand tighten, and be careful not to overtighten.

Close the water heater’s drain valve and open the cold water inlet valve—the shut-off valve handle should now be parallel to the pipe. You should also open a nearby hot water faucet. Once the water starts flowing, keep the faucet running for a few minutes to drain out excess air and sediment.

Reconnect the black and white circuit wires by wrapping them clockwise around the screw terminals on the heating element. You can attach either wire to either terminal. Tighten the screws and make sure the wire is fully secure before folding the insulation down and screwing the cover plate back in place over the access panel.

Go to your circuit breaker, and turn on the power to your water heater. Wait several hours for the water to heat in the tank. Run a faucet to test the water temperature. If necessary, adjust the thermostat.

If your hot water heater is making an unusual noise, you notice leaks, or you still aren’t getting sufficient hot water, call in a professional to see what the issue is.