How to Fix Sunken Pavers
Pave the way to a smoother, safer surface
- Flathead screwdrivers
- Utility knife or flat chisel
- Trowel
- Shovel
- Hand tamper
- Knee pads or folded towel
- Work gloves
- Chalk or painter’s tape
- Bedding sand (paver sand)
- Crushed stone or gravel
Sunken pavers can create trip hazards, drainage problems, and long-term damage if left unaddressed. Not to mention, they’re not very pretty to look at. The good news is, you don’t have to redo your entire patio or walkway to fix a few uneven pavers. This step-by-step guide walks you through how to lift and reset sunken pavers to create a level, stable surface.
Gather Tools and Materials
Before you start, set up a small work area near the paver problem so you’re not walking back and forth grabbing things mid-project. If you’ll be kneeling on hard surfaces, now’s the time to grab knee pads or a folded towel to protect your joints. You should also wear work gloves if you’re dealing with rough or heavy pavers, and wear shoes with a good grip since you’ll be working around uneven ground.
Mark the Area
When one paver sinks, it usually means the base underneath has shifted, settled, or eroded, which can affect the surrounding pavers too, even if they still look level. So in many cases, you’ll need to lift and reset not just the sunken paver, but a few around it as well.
Use chalk or painter’s tape to mark a clear boundary around the section you’ll be working on. Start at the outermost edge of the sunken or loose paver, then measure and mark at least 12 to 16 inches out in all four directions from that point.
Remove All Pavers Inside Marked Area
Photo: jada photo / Moment / Getty ImagesNext, remove all the pavers inside the area you marked. Even if some look level, they’re still sitting on the same base as the sunken pavers, so you want to make sure to remove them all to properly fix the base, or you risk future sinking.
Use two flathead screwdrivers to gently pry up each paver. Wedge them into the joints on either side and work slowly to lift it straight up without cracking the edges. If the pavers are packed tightly, you might need to loosen the joint sand first with a utility knife or flat chisel. Once removed, set the pavers aside in the order you pulled them so you know how to reinstall them later.
Inspect, Clean, and Excavate the Base Layer
After lifting the pavers, you’ll see a layer of sand covering the base material, which usually comprises compacted gravel or crushed stone. That top layer of sand is what the pavers rest on, and if it’s washed out, packed down unevenly, or visibly thinned in some spots, that’s likely what caused the sinking.
Use a trowel to scoop out all of the sand within the marked area. Make sure that you remove the full layer so you can get a clear view of the base underneath. As you dig, check for soft spots, moisture, or any part of the base that looks thinner or looser than the rest. If you find areas where the gravel has eroded, settled, or shifted, dig those out too. You want to get down to solid, compacted material that isn’t shifting under pressure.
Once the unstable material is cleared out, don’t worry yet about making it perfectly level or matching the surrounding surface. Right now, your only goal is to fully expose any weak points so you’re not rebuilding on a compromised foundation.
Rebuild and Compact the Base Layer
Photo: welcomia / iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty ImagesStart by replacing any gravel or crushed stone you had to remove. This is the sub-base, and it needs to be solid before anything else goes on top. Then re-add gravel in layers, about 2 inches at a time, and compact each layer thoroughly using a hand tamper. Keep adding and tamping until the base reaches its original depth, which is usually around 4 to 6 inches.
Add Fresh Layer of Bedding Sand
Once the gravel is solid and level, add a fresh layer of sand across the entire area. This top layer should be about 1 inch deep. Spread it out evenly, then use a straight two-by-four or screed board to level the surface. But don’t compact the sand; it’s meant to stay loose so the pavers can settle into place.
When you’re done, you should have a flat, even layer of sand sitting on top of a fully compacted base, ready for the pavers to go back in.
Replace the Pavers
Photo: ozgurcoskun / iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty ImagesStart placing the pavers back into the sand bed, one by one, following the same pattern they were in before. Make sure to set each paver down gently—don’t slide or drop them—and press them lightly into the sand.
Once all the pavers are in place, use a rubber mallet to tap each one down so it sits flush with the surrounding surface. Work slowly and check your alignment as you go to avoid uneven spacing or a crooked finish. If anything feels too high or too low, lift it, adjust the sand underneath, and reset it.
Sweep Sand Into Joints
Once all the pavers are back in place and level, use a broom to sweep jointing sand over the surface to fill the gaps. Work the sand diagonally across the joints to pack it in as tightly as possible. Go over the area a few times to make sure every joint is filled all the way to the top.
If you're using polymeric sand, grab a leaf blower and lightly sweep off the excess from the surface without pulling sand out of the joints. Then mist the entire area with water to activate the binding agents. Once the sand sets, it’ll lock the pavers in place and help prevent weeds and shifting over time.
Mistakes to Avoid
One of the most common mistakes is only removing the visibly sunken paver instead of lifting the surrounding ones. But the issue with the base often extends beyond the sunken paver, you see, so you usually need to lift a few of the surrounding pavers.
Another potential mistake is not properly compacting the gravel base. If you pour it all in at once or tamp it too lightly, it won’t hold up over time. The base needs to be added in layers and firmly compacted to prevent future settling.
Some DIYers also try to reuse the existing sand instead of removing it completely. But even if it looks okay, old bedding sand is often uneven or already compressed, which can keep the new pavers from sitting level. It’s better to start fresh.
When to Fix Sunken Pavers
The best time to fix sunken pavers is during dry, mild weather, ideally in spring or early fall. You’ll want to avoid working during heavy rain, freezing temperatures, or extreme heat, since moisture can interfere with the base layers, and high temperatures can cause materials to expand or dry too quickly.
Make a habit of checking your patio, walkway, or driveway every spring, especially after a wet winter or freeze-thaw cycles. If you notice pooling water, loose bricks, or uneven surfaces, it’s a good sign the base needs attention.
DIY vs. Hiring a Pro
Many homeowners can fix simple sunken paver projects themselves with the right tools and a free afternoon. But if the sinking covers a large section, happens near a foundation or drainage line, or keeps recurring, it’s worth bringing in a local paver pro to help. For minor repairs, the primary costs involve materials like gravel, sand, and jointing sand, which can cost between $100 and $300, depending on the size of the area. Professional hardscaping services cost $5 to $25 per square foot, depending on the project's complexity. For example, repairing a 100-square-foot area could cost between $500 and $2,500.
If you used regular jointing sand, you can typically walk on the repaired area right away. If you used polymeric sand, wait at least 24 hours before walking on it and 48 to 72 hours before driving over it, depending on the weather. Polymeric sand needs time to fully cure and lock the pavers in place.
If pavers are uneven but not sunken, lift the affected bricks and check the bedding sand underneath. In many cases, simply smoothing out or adjusting the sand is enough to level them. Add or remove small amounts as needed, then press the pavers back into place and tap them with a mallet until they sit evenly with the surrounding surface.
The best way to prevent weeds is to use polymeric sand, which hardens and blocks weed growth when activated with water. If you're using regular sand, you'll need to refill and compact it more often. Keeping the surface clean and free of debris can also help prevent weed seeds from settling in the joints.
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