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You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

Tree roots are hearty and complex systems, so they don’t die immediately after the rest of the tree is removed. If you leave the root system in place, it takes anywhere from two to seven years for it to run out of nutrients. It is worth noting, however, that the roots stop growing and expanding after cutting down the rest of the tree.

It is possible to burn out a tree stump if it is dried out and in an area of your property with a large buffer. Drill holes in the stump and dig around the base so it burns more easily. Then, build a small campfire on top using kindling and firewood. You’ll need enough to keep the fire going for many hours to completely burn out the stump, especially if it’s large. 

Monitor the fire closely to ensure it doesn’t spread, and have a hose on hand if it starts to get out of control. When the fire is out, break apart the burned stump and dig out what’s left of it.  

If this sounds like a good option, learn more about how to burn a tree stump before attempting it, as it does come with risks.

Light-bark trees are most notorious for producing lots of sap when wounded. These varieties include maples, birches, poplars, dogwoods, magnolias, and elms, and they will bleed more when the trees are dormant. That’s why it’s a good idea to prune them in the summer months rather than waiting until winter.