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There are several benefits to wet-sanding drywall, but the main perk is that it produces far less dust than dry-sanding. As a result, wet-sanding poses fewer health risks and makes less of a mess in your home. Plus, damp sponges are less abrasive than sandpaper, so there’s a smaller chance of scratching or damaging the drywall paper. Wet-sanding also creates a smoother finish than dry-sanding.

Both plaster and drywall are durable wall finishes, but they differ significantly in installation, cost, performance, and aesthetics.

Installation & Cost: Drywall installation is faster and more affordable, typically costing $1.50 to $3 per square foot. It uses premade sheets, making it a more accessible DIY project. Plastering is a labor-intensive craft that requires specialized skills, pushing costs to $2 to $10 per square foot. It involves applying a wet paste over a lath framework.

Durability & Performance: Plaster is generally more durable, longer-lasting, and provides superior soundproofing. It is also a better insulator, which can help reduce energy costs. Drywall is easier to remove for future renovations.

Aesthetics: Drywall provides a smooth, uniform surface ready for paint or texture. Plaster offers a high-end, naturally textured look that can hide imperfections and is often preferred for achieving a classic or historic aesthetic.

Which is better? The choice depends on your priorities. Drywall is ideal for those prioritizing a lower upfront cost, faster installation, and DIY potential. Plaster is the better option for a higher-end project where durability, soundproofing, and a unique, premium finish are more important than the initial cost.

A common cause of separation between a wall and the ceiling is truss lift—this can happen to the ceiling of rooms directly under the attic when the seasons change and wood building materials dry out, shrink, and shift. Roof trusses often dry out at different speeds, and if the bottom pieces dry out faster than the top pieces, they can shrink and pull the attached drywall away from ceilings and walls, causing cracks. Fortunately, truss lift is only a cosmetic problem, not a structural problem, and you can fix it by separating the ceiling drywall from the roof trusses, and patching the cracks.

Choose a drill bit that is the size of the screws of the anchors you will use. You aren’t drilling through metal or concrete—hopefully—so any standard twist, wooden or all-purpose drill bit will work fine. It’s also important to have a screwdriver capable of drilling through the drywall and into the stud. The good news is most available drills, even the older ones, can do this with no issue.