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The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

The 10 10 rule describes the formula most contractors use to determine how much to charge for a job. Allowing for 10% overhead above the total projected cost to do the work and 10% profit sets a contractor up for success, even if there are delays or other problems on the project. This formula isn’t a hard-and-fast rule, but it is a ballpark figure to begin with when estimating your expenses on a job.

Cathedral ceilings make a statement in your home, but at the cost of your attic space. Normal attics are wide open, which allows warm air to move around and exit your home. Because of this, cathedral ceilings make your home less energy efficient and put your ceiling at risk of venting issues if you’re not careful. They also reduce your attic storage space, potentially cause an echo, and even make it harder to change a light bulb.

First, most contractors will have a structural engineer create a report and plan for your project to ensure it’s safe to cut into the load-bearing wall. The contractor will then excavate around the wall, if necessary, measure the opening—allowing for additional space to fit and level the door, and then cut the doorway out. They will likely install a steel lintel as a header over the door for support. Once the doorway is cut out, they’ll demolish the concrete using sledge hammers and masonry chisels, clean up the surrounding concrete, and seal around the door with masonry mortar. 

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