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Basement toilets don’t always need a pump. However, it is the most common setup because plumbing systems use gravity to move waste away from the home. Basement toilets often sit below the home’s main sewage system, and installing a sewage ejector pump pushes the wastewater and sewage up to the main sewer line. Alternatively, you can use an upflush or macerator toilet that breaks down the waste and pushes it straight to the main sewer line rather than via a sewer line from the bathroom.

According to the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC), the distance between your trap and the vent should be no more than 6 feet. For your vent to work properly, it needs to feed into the drain line within 6 feet of trapways that connect to it. Using this formula, you should be able to determine whether you will need multiple vent lines.

You can tell if your toilet fill valve is full by removing the lid and taking a look. When you flush the toilet, the float is at the bottom of the tank, the water empties, and the fill valve opens. The float rises to the top as the tank fills again with water. When the float rises to the right level, the fill valve closes; if the valve is too high, your toilet may only partially flush, requiring you to adjust the float. 

When working on your bathroom floor tiling, you should always tile the floor first and then refit the toilet afterward. This has both practical and visual advantages—the tile will have a better seal, and the installation will look cleaner.

On the other hand, when you try to cut the tiles to fit around the toilet, you’re putting yourself at a disadvantage. It’s a lot more work, it’s hard to be precise, and mistakes or miscalculations can lead to future moisture damage to the tiling, grout, and subfloor.