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The best way to make long, straight cuts is to use a utility knife and a T-square to score the sheet, snap along the score, and then finish the cut by cutting through the paper on the opposite side with the utility knife. If you’re making small cuts, curved cuts, or cutouts for electrical boxes or light fixtures, you can use a manual jab saw to keep costs down, but an electric spiral saw or oscillating multi-tool will get the cleanest, fastest cuts possible.

You should always hang drywall from the top down. Starting at the top makes it easier to create a straight, tight line between the ceiling and the wall. Any gaps that occur will be at the bottom, where they are easier to manage. You can either cut the bottom piece of drywall to fit the remaining space or cover the gap with baseboard trim. Additionally, starting at the top is physically easier, as you won't have to fit the top sheet into a tight space between the lower sheet and the ceiling, or try to balance the upper sheets on the lower ones while securing them.

If your premixed drywall mud is dried out or has begun to set in the bucket, you may be able to revive it by adding warm water and stirring. However, the first and most important step is to scrape off any hard, dried bits of drywall that may have accumulated toward the top of the container and throw them away because they will not easily reconstitute back into the drywall mud mix.

If your home was built before the 1940s and was not remodeled in the past 50 or so years, you probably have plaster walls. Aside from assuming, there are some practical ways to tell if you have plaster walls, including the following: If you knock on the wall and it feels solid, not hollow, if you can’t insert a thumbtack easily, if there are cracks that look like spiderwebs, or if your home has curved, arched, or swirled walls, doorways, or window openings.

If you have an unfinished basement or attic, you could examine the backs of any finished walls to check, too.