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The cost of masonry work varies widely depending on the type of masonry along with common cost factors like size, complexity, location, and season. Most exterior masonry work done in freezing temperatures tends to cost more because of the preparation and protection involved to keep the masonry from freezing before the mortar cures properly. The average price ranges per project or square foot for different types of masonry include:

• Brick wall (fence, garden wall, etc.): $10–$45 per square foot

• Natural stone wall: $40–$110 per square foot

• Manufactured stone veneer: $20–$40 per square foot

• Brick home exterior: $10–$30 per square foot

• Brick siding: $3–$10 per square foot

• Stone siding: $35–$50 per square foot

• Brick step replacement: $20–$30 per square foot

• Brick wall repair: $20–$40 per square foot

• Chimney repairs: $160–$750 per project

• Tuckpointing: $5–$25 per square foot

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

The best tool for drilling into brick or mortar is a rotary hammer drill which is a large hammer drill with low rotation speed and high torque. Regular drills with a hammer function are also excellent tools for drilling into brick when the diameter of the hole is 1/2 inch or less. It might be possible to drill into brick with a standard drill if you’re only drilling a very small hole, but note that masonry work will put a lot of wear on a standard drill, and the tool may not be strong enough to get through brick.

When painting brick, each application method has distinct advantages and disadvantages. Spraying is significantly faster but may not penetrate deeply beyond the surface layer. Rolling is effective for working paint into the brick's texture but can be less effective on mortar joints. If you opt for a roller, choose a thick nap of at least a half-inch to ensure paint gets into all the crevices for even coverage. Using a brush is generally not recommended as it is very time-consuming and provides poor surface penetration. Ultimately, a combination of spraying followed by back-rolling is often the best strategy for a durable and even finish.