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Both plaster and drywall are durable wall finishes, but they differ significantly in installation, cost, performance, and aesthetics.

Installation & Cost: Drywall installation is faster and more affordable, typically costing $1.50 to $3 per square foot. It uses premade sheets, making it a more accessible DIY project. Plastering is a labor-intensive craft that requires specialized skills, pushing costs to $2 to $10 per square foot. It involves applying a wet paste over a lath framework.

Durability & Performance: Plaster is generally more durable, longer-lasting, and provides superior soundproofing. It is also a better insulator, which can help reduce energy costs. Drywall is easier to remove for future renovations.

Aesthetics: Drywall provides a smooth, uniform surface ready for paint or texture. Plaster offers a high-end, naturally textured look that can hide imperfections and is often preferred for achieving a classic or historic aesthetic.

Which is better? The choice depends on your priorities. Drywall is ideal for those prioritizing a lower upfront cost, faster installation, and DIY potential. Plaster is the better option for a higher-end project where durability, soundproofing, and a unique, premium finish are more important than the initial cost.

Furring strips, thin strips of wood or metal, are not always required for ceiling drywall installation. If the ceiling surface is even and in good condition, drywall can be directly attached to the ceiling joists using screws. However, furring strips become essential when dealing with irregular surfaces or when additional insulation or soundproofing is needed. They create a level substrate for attaching the drywall. Ultimately, the decision to use furring strips depends on the condition of the existing ceiling and the specific requirements of the project.

If your home was built before the 1940s and was not remodeled in the past 50 or so years, you probably have plaster walls. Aside from assuming, there are some practical ways to tell if you have plaster walls, including the following: If you knock on the wall and it feels solid, not hollow, if you can’t insert a thumbtack easily, if there are cracks that look like spiderwebs, or if your home has curved, arched, or swirled walls, doorways, or window openings.

If you have an unfinished basement or attic, you could examine the backs of any finished walls to check, too.

You should do a little bit of sanding between adding coats of mud. Knock down any ridges or significantly imperfect areas through sanding, which should help you apply the next coat of mud smoothly. If your first coat of mud is pretty smooth after it dries, a quick sanding is all you’ll need. Don’t forget to wipe away any dust after each sanding process.