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You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

Your neighbor is not in a good position to know if your trees are truly dead or pose any kind of danger. That’s why hiring an arborist or tree service expert can be such an important part of the process. If the trees are still alive and don’t pose any threat, you’re in the clear (but you may want to document and photograph everything in case events turn sour down the road).

But if a tree is visibly dead and near the property line, you should remove it to be safe. If a dead tree falls on a neighbor’s property, they may have grounds to sue for negligence. If any branches on trees have died, it’s a good idea to cut them back for similar reasons.

The best way to protect tree roots is to avoid the roots entirely by excavating outside the root radius of the tree. For nearby projects, it’s a good idea to construct a temporary retaining wall. But that’s not always possible, depending on the project and the root system. In these cases, consider using alternative equipment like an auger to tunnel under the ground.

Remember, tree roots can damage nearby cement foundations as they grow. If a tree is close enough to interfere with large excavations, it may be better to remove the tree than risk future problems.

As a general rule, the protected area should be about 1½ times as wide as the canopy of the tree’s leaves. This digging measurement can vary by tree species and the age of the tree. Of course, that can be a lot of fencing for larger trees, which is why our first step is about making difficult decisions on which trees to save.