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Ductwork should be wrapped in insulation in certain locations. This includes unconditioned interior parts of the home, such as attics, crawl spaces, basement ceilings, and between floors. Duct joints should also be insulated since they're more likely to leak air than other parts of your system. Building codes in some areas also require ductwork to be insulated.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

For your safety, you should always wear a mask when cutting batts of fiberglass insulation. We also recommend wearing eye protection, safety gloves, and long sleeves to protect your skin. Properly suiting up helps you avoid several fiberglass issues, such as cuts from the tiny shards of glass and inhaling small bits of fiberglass.

Insulating a detached garage won't reduce your home's heating or cooling bills—and insulating an attached garage will only have a small effect on your home's energy efficiency. However, insulating an attached garage can reduce the transfer of heating and cooling to and from the outdoors, which can reduce the amount of energy your home needs to stay comfortable. Also, having an insulated garage is just more pleasant. Balance the cost of insulating your garage with how you'll use the space to determine if the project is worth it.